The New Indian Express ·
Wayanad’s ‘stone flower’ blooms in Keralam spice market
KALPETTA: Wayanad’s spice trade is seeing growing interest in an ingredient that has long remained largely unnoticed by Malayali kitchens. Kalpasi, commonly known as ‘stone flower’, a natural fungus found on rocks and tree trunks, is gaining popularity as a spice, while also providing an additional source of income for tribal communities who collect it from the forests.
Traditionally used in North Indian and Tamil cuisines, kalpasi is valued for its distinctive aroma and flavour, which becomes more pronounced when sautéed in ghee. It is commonly used in dishes such as mandi, kabsa and biryani and is now increasingly finding its way into Keralam dishes.
Wayanad has emerged as a major trading hub for kalpasi, with the spice procured locally and distributed from the district’s spice markets to different parts of the state. In shops in Kalpetta, it is sold for around `150 per 100 grams, considerably lower than the roughly `350 charged by online platforms for the same quantity.
Traders say social media reels featuring kalpasi in biryani, mandi, and even traditional Keralam dishes have helped drive its popularity among Malayali consumers.
“Kalpasi has been available in the market for around five years. However, our main customers were migrant workers and Tamilians working in the plantations. It was only recently that Malayalis started using it in Keralam dishes. With more reels showing kalpasi being used as a flavouring agent, we are now getting local customers as well,” said Kabeer, owner of Pepper-Spices and Hill Products in Vythiri.
Another trader, Ali Akbar, owner of V C Brothers Spices in Kalpetta, said the volume of kalpasi sold remains relatively low compared with other spices despite its higher price.
“Other spices are purchased in large quantities, while Kalpasi is usually sold in 50-gram and 100-gram packs. The highest quantity we sold was 1 kg, to an Arab tourist a few months ago. While the online price can go up to Rs 4,000 per kg, we sell it here for Rs 1,500 per kg. Usually, it is priced at Rs 150 for 100 grams,” he said.
For tribal workers who venture into the forest for their daily work, kalpasi has become a small but useful source of additional income. The fungus grows in relatively pollution-free environments and is commonly found on rocks and tree trunks deep inside forests, particularly near streams and rivers.
“Kalpasi grows only in surroundings without pollution. We find it deep inside the forest, on rocks and trees, especially near rivers where the air is fresh. It is easy to scrape off the fungus. After finishing our regular work, we collect some and sell it to spice shops in the town. We get around `800 to `1,000 per kg. However, we usually manage to deliver only 250 to 500 grams in each collection,” said Rajan, a tribal worker who collects kalpasi from the Wayanad forests.
Traders said the fungus is also easy to transport and store as it has a long shelf life once dried. The growing demand from outside the district is also opening up a wider market for the spice.
“Once Malayalis become familiar with the taste of kalpasi, the demand will increase significantly. Even now, we receive orders from shops in different parts of the state. However, our main customers are migrant workers and tourists from outside Keralam,” said Ajmal Nalakath, founder of Wayanad-based Beelieve Wild Spice Distributor.