The curious case of Fendi’s <span class='webrupee'>₹</span>9.59 lakh mirror-work bag

The curious case of Fendi’s ₹9.59 lakh mirror-work bag

Fendi’s ₹9.59 lakh ‘Navratri bag’ has sparked questions over who gets credit when global luxury brands draw from Indian craft traditions.

A $10,000 ( ₹9.59 lakh) bag by Italian brand Fendi has sparked a social media debate around Western brands using Indian crafts and techniques without giving due credit. The bag’s multi-coloured embroidery, mirror-work and beads are reminiscent of India’s Gujarati and Rajasthani craft. Being dubbed the ‘Navratri bag’ online, Fendi’s website describes it as the Baguette 26424 Multicolour Re-Edition. Made In Italy, it is embroidered with 39,500 beads and 475 mirrors, and taken over 138 hours of craftsmanship.

Social media users in India, including noted names like industrialist Harsh Goenka and philanthropist Kiran Mazumdar Shaw, have raised questions around cultural appropriation.

An Instagram post by fashion watchdog Diet Paratha mentioned that both the 1995 iteration and the current design of the mirrored bags were created by Indian artisans at the Chanakya School of Craft, Mumbai.

When HT reached out to the team, they confirmed that in a video from April 19 this year, Fendi had credited the artisans, writing, “Discover how sequins, beads and mirrors are transformed into unique works of art through the skilled hands of Chanakya artisans.”

The team continued, “On the “Made in Italy” attribution, the embroidery is handcrafted in India by Chanakya, while the construction of the bag, including the leatherwork, lining and final assembly, takes place in Italy.”

Since Fendi doesn’t give direct attribution to Indian artisans on its website, social media users raised questions. While one user wrote, “Brands these days are puposely launching rage bait designs.” Another commented, “If Indian craftsmanship is an integral part of the product’s story, shouldn’t Fendi be telling that story more visibly."